Last year I developed a real interest in surfing. I must admit at first it was because I wanted to say I’d done it, however I’m now totally hooked!

That must sound strange for someone who is from Preston where there is no sea, sand or surf…or life guards for that matter, furthermore, I don’t really have the skin to become a surfer chick, being a red head!

Originally, I hit the beach on a couple of occasions, had a few lessons which were to no avail and found it incredibly difficult to manoeuvre the  huge foam hire board over the smallest of waves, however I seem to be spending every free weekend chasing the surf and I LOVE IT!

I’m the type of person who can’t completely relax at the weekend and I often feel quite low if I stay inside for too long, being at the beach with the sand in my feet and wind in my hair just feels so right!

It’s only recently though, that things have started to click… I’m now standing up pretty much every time I catch a wave, paddling stronger and even changing direction. Granted I still don’t have that golden surfer chick tan and I still can’t take my wetsuit off without getting all hot and bothered but persistence truly is the key. That and hanging out with like-minded people.

There is honestly no better feeling than going down to the beach late evening watching the sun set and riding a wave into the shore. Understandably being Emma-Marie I took things one step further and booked a holiday to Malibu, Ca. And yes, I do realise that the waves here may be a tad higher than Devon and Cornwall but I honestly don’t care!

Anyway for those girls who love sport and want to try something different, don’t be afraid to try surfing. It doesn’t matter if you live far away from the beach, nor does it matter if you are male or female…  put it on your list of things to do before you die!

I’ve also put a few pointers below for the “surfer-slang” that I learnt this weekend in Devon. I have however added one myself though at the bottom! Coined I phrase indeed!

Board: Short for surfboard.

Choppy: Ocean wave conditions that are rough not smooth.

Clean: Good conditions, good waves, and good surfboards.

Leash: The urethane cord used to attach a surfboard to a surfer

Swell: Waves and size of swell is how big they are

Set: A series of outside breaking waves

Pop-up: Getting to ones feet, after catching the wave.

Pearl: A wipe out where the nose of the surfboard goes under the water – This makes you feel very stupid indeed!

“Tumbledryer” when you don’t concentrate, a wave crashes over you and you feel like you are being spun around and around in circles. The result is a very dizzy return to the surface and ALOT of unattractive snot on your face.